Luang Prabang - First Impressions of Laos

We arrived in Luang Prabang in Northern Laos just before 9 p.m. Very dark of course and quite humid so we had no idea what it was really going to look like the next day. Laos had been an add-on to this trip. We knew nothing of Laos but a couple people had told me that is was a great place to visit so I threw it on the list – who knew when you might ever get to Laos in your lifetime.

We woke up on the banks of the Khan River where it reaches the Mekong surrounded by mountains enveloped by low lying clouds – it was spectacular!! The hotel we stayed at (Le Belair Villas – highly recommended) offered us bikes during our stay to use anytime so we decided to use these to explore. They also gave us unlimited water to drink which is great when its 33 degrees everyday.

We rode to our first set of temples – very modest but surrounded by nice gardens. We then decided to cycle around the old town to get our bearings. Luang Prabang has a population of only 100,000 so it is quite easy to get around. The old town (all of it a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995) is quite small, has very little traffic and the most obvious thing missing from Vietnam is the horn blowing – there was NONE. Vietnam traffic was always thick and loud. The silence was very welcome.

We stopped by a café on the banks of the Mekong for Lemon Shakes and then walked up to Phou Si (“Sacred Hill”) – one of the most holy areas of the town.

It stands on the top of the hill in the middle of the town and is surrounded by many gold statues of Buddha. The views were great.


We also visited the National Museum, the former home of the King and Queen of Laos (the last ones before they were sent to the wilderness to die in the mid 1900s).


On our first night we tasted the great traditional Lao food – Lap Muu (minced pork cooked with lots of garlic, spring onions and lemongrass). We also made a quick visit to the Night Market – the very best market we had been to on our travels. We started to do some Christmas shopping.

We decided to take a boat ride on the second day up the Mekong to the Pac Au Caves.

We had a beautiful ride down the Mekong surrounded by the mountains, passing fishing villages and lots of kids diving and swimming in the river. The caves are small but interesting in that they house abandoned Buddhas that are no longer “appropriate” for the temples – I guess they were passed their used-by dates…There are little kids all the way up the walk (this happened in many places) trying to sell you birds in small cages.
It is good luck to let them go near temples and other holy places.


We also stopped at a Whiskey Village – a small village known for making whiskey from sticky rice – it is sweet but good.


On our last morning of our time here, I decided to go into town early to watch the Monks “parade” through town – some may call it stalking. The Buddhists Monks are very respected in Laos and revered in this town. Each morning, they walk the streets and people offer them food for the day. From midday, they do not eat so they walk around town accepting offers and prayers. They look regal in their garments. It was fun to capture their daily ritual.

In total we spent four nights in Luang Prabang and we were quite sad to leave. It has been a highlight for us…the people – who always bowed their heads, folding their hands, wishing you well with the greeting “Sabai Di”, the food – fresh, tasty and a good cross between Thai and Vietnamese, the scenery – beautiful in every direction, the intricate handiwork of their garments of silk and hand spun cotton, silver jewellery…and the relaxed approach to life. We will really miss this special place…”Khop Jai” – thank you!!